UNESCO World Heritage Site Xochimilco, that is. Here’s what Lonely Planet has to say about it:

‘Almost at the southern edge [of Mexico City], a network of canals flanked by gardens is a vivid reminder of the city’s pre-Hispanic legacy. Remnants of the chinampas (raised fertile land where indigenous inhabitants grew their food), these ‘floating gardens’ are still in use today. Gliding along the canals in a fancifully decorated trajinera (gondola) is an alternately tranquil and festive experience. On weekends a fiesta atmosphere takes over as the waterways become jammed with boats carrying groups of families and friends. Local vendors and musicians hover alongside the partygoers, serving food and drink.’

Sounds good, doesn’t it? Well, I had 24 hours in Mexico City between arriving from an Internet Governance Forum in Guadalajara and my flight back to London. Take off sleeping time, three hour check-in time, and filming at The Salvation Army’s Mexico City Central corps at 9:30am on Sunday morning.

Arriving when it was already dark left only one sensible option, and that was an early start. Before it was even light, I set off for the metro station. It was just being unshuttered as I arrived there, so once I’d negotiated the ticket machine I bundled on to the first train south. But as I pulled in to the interchange station – disaster – the Xochimilco line was not operating. There was a bus replacement, and I could not discern how much longer this would add to my necessarily short journey. Given the immovable 9:30am deadline, I cut my losses and got no further than a sign proclaiming how welcoming Xochimilco was. I suppose, technically, I did make it there, in the same way that Ryanair serves ‘London’.

The rest of the day, thankfully, proceeded more smoothly. I did manage half an hour of Aztec exploration in Mexico City’s historic centre before getting to church on time. There, I had the great joy of meeting Miguel Rodriguez, the emergency/disaster response coordinator, who I had only met by email and Skype – once rearranging his office to ensure the shot was well branded for a live interview with Sky News!

The Mexico team were very welcoming, despite the brevity and specific requirements of my visit. After church and the filming undertakings (for a forthcoming ‘Christmas around the world’ compilation) were finished, they took me to see one of their projects serving homeless people. And it was all rounded off with a memorable meal of mole at a local restaurant. I may have missed out on Xochimilco, but this lunch was so good that it lingers in my consciousness – a perfect blend of spicy, chocolatey chicken with the best rice I have ever eaten.

Replete, Miguel returned me to the hotel where, miraculously, there was even an hour to relax by the pool before the long flight home. And, it was one of those rare occasions where, on boarding, the air crew invited me to turn left rather than right, for an overnight flight spent unexpectedly but gloriously horizontal. Bliss!